A Naturalist on the Katmai Peninsula of Alaska

The Katmai Peninsula is wild, still supporting all the animals and fish present when Europeans first came to Alaska. The vastness, the brown bears, the sockeye salmon, and the glaciers leave one in awe. We spent a week in Alaska, where we experienced this landscape. I traveled with Nature Photography Adventures; they organized the trip and developed the itinerary. Farm Lodge on Port Alsworth was our base of operations, and we flew in float planes to explore Lake Clark and Katmai National Parks.

The Katmai Peninsula of Alaska is filled with wonders that made me pause and think. Sockeye salmon return to spawn, brown bears come to eat them, Harlequin Ducks feed on acquatic insects who profit from the ocean nutrients brought by the salmon, and Glaucous-wing Gulls eat dead salmon scraps. Gray-cheeked Thrushes who winter in South America breed in this part of Alaska and the mountains are covered by snow and glaciers. It is awe inspiring.
The Katmai Peninsula of Alaska is filled with wonders that made me pause and think. Sockeye salmon return to spawn, brown bears come to eat them, Harlequin Ducks feed on aquatic insects that profit from the ocean nutrients brought by the salmon, and Glaucous-wing Gulls eat dead salmon scraps. Gray-cheeked Thrushes who winter in South America breed in this part of Alaska; the mountains are covered by snow and glaciers. It is awe-inspiring.

The Trip on the Katmai

This trip was about photographing bears and salmon, or at least that was what I thought. I’d helped The Wilderness Society add a science component to their Alaska conservation program. Through that effort, I’d learned a lot about Alaska’s Wilderness and been to the state a few times, but I’d never really spent time in wild Alaska, feeling, seeing, and absorbing its wonders.

The plan was to fly south to Katmai National Park and hike to areas where brown bears were fishing for sockeye salmon. Waking early that first morning made me think other things were on my mind. At Funnel Creek, the athleticism of the bears and salmon was remarkable. The fish zipped one way, then another; flips of its tail shot it through the water like it had come out of a cannon. The bear met each turn with precision, staying in close pursuit. At Brooks Falls, the bears took a different approach, waiting for the salmon to come close to the falls and then grabbing one. It was unbelievable.  The brown bears were massive and within a baseball throw. 

Along Funnel and Moraine Creeks, brown bears actively chase down sockeye. They will pursue a fish for a dozen seconds or more, running through knee-deep water. High levels of heavy metals, like copper, might affect the salmon’s ability to escape bears. An international corporation has proposed building a copper and gold mine on the Katmai Peninsula.

Reflections

Thoughts of my life, decisions, and what might have been kept returning. I’d changed careers midway through life, switching from a research scientist to working on conservation. Recently, I left my last paying job. The wilderness was encouraging me to evaluate where I now was. Places, things we saw, and the experience brought back memories.

Permanent snow fills any depressions on the tops of these mountains. The snow will eventually turn to ice and begin to flow, making small glaciers. Two hanging glaciers come out of the top snow field.

We flew over wild country, untrammeled by humans. The Alaskan and Aleutian ranges were wild, large, and growing from continental drift. Massive glaciers dotted the slopes. A stop on Upper Twin Lake allowed us to visit Dick Pronneke’s cabin, seeing where he lived for several decades. The bears, the landscape, and the wilds were mesmerizing, intricate, and complex. The trip consumed my mind while there and in the weeks following. Then, I decided to write a book to explore those thoughts and feelings. My book, Beyond the Wonder: An Ecologist’s View of Wild Alaska, has recently been released in paperback by Washington State University Press, and the hardcover should come out in December 2024. 

Dick Proenneke built this cabin with hand tools and lived in the wilderness along Upper Twin Lake for several decades.
Dick Proenneke built this cabin with hand tools and lived in the wilderness along Upper Twin Lake for several decades.

A Presentation on the Trip

I recently read from the book at the Mountaineers. Alaska ignited my wonder and awe, generating many fascinating thoughts. The presentation covers some highlights from the book, a few reading excerpts, and some stunning photographs. The Katmai Peninsula is of conservation concern. An international company has proposed building a massive copper and gold mine in the waters that support the largest sockeye salmon run in the world. People need to be aware of this treasure and ensure its protection.

WSU Press wrote this about the book: “More than just a biological perspective on Alaska’s wonders, a discussion of potential environmental impacts from human actions, a personal travel account, or a collection of dynamic photographs, Beyond the Wonder is a beautiful meditation on nature—one that highlights the importance of untamed places and the role they play in crafting a better world.

I hope you consider picking up a copy or giving it as a present. You can find out more about the book and links to many bookstores here:

Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Youtube
Youtube
Instagram