A Portfolio from Tanzania

I like to make a calendar for my family and friends. It is a chance to showcase my photographs around a particular theme and share the wonders of the natural world. It is a chance to look hard at what I’d captured, trying to pull out the very best. A calendar limits me to thirteen photographs unless I put more than one on a month. This year I focused on Tanzania.

In March 2023, I had a chance to travel in southern Tanzania. We visited two national parks, Ruaha and Nyerere. Scrub savannas dominate these vast areas, and both have important rivers flowing through them. Morning and afternoon times in the bush gave us a chance to explore several places. On each outing, we had outstanding local guides who helped us find our way.

From the capital, Dar es-Salaam, we flew to Ruaha National Park for several days and then by plane to Nyerere National Park.

In picking photographs, I wanted a diversity of species, some birds, mammals, and even a reptile. Each needed to show more than just the species; hopefully, it would also tell us something about their ecology and life history. In many cases, a sequence of photos might tell a more complete story, and perhaps I’ll do some “studies in xxxx” to explore that idea. Here, though, I’ve kept it to one.

Bull Elephant

As our vehicle pulled into a more open area with a mix of grasses, shrubs, and acacia trees, we found a bachelor herd of elephants feeding. They were all large, but none appeared to be an old, old male. These were like “twentysomething men” working to grow and become stronger. They paid us no heed initially as we sat watching them go about their lives. Then, two started to flap their large ears and began to approach. Both elephants seemed agitated that we had disturbed their meal or maybe intruded on their private party. One raised his trunk a few times, maybe sniffing the air for our scent, as he walked toward us. He came up to a bush, something that might have formed a fence-like structure. Was this something for him or us, I wondered. He flapped his ears some more, tossing his trunk back and forth. This behavior was a mock charge, a display of his dominance over us. Our driver sat content, watching. He didn’t appear worried, so I slid forward on my seat, focusing my camera on this magnificent specimen. The bull walked up to the bush, and I thought he might use his tusks to scrape and rattle the branches, letting us know what he thought. He didn’t, he did flap those ears and wave his trunk but never shook his head. Eventually, he turned, walking away as if to say, “Oh, humans, how boring!” — A bachelor herd of elephants fed on grasses and bushes along the west bank of the Rufiji Rive. Our boat was drifting a dozen yards off the shore. These guys were all large, but none appeared to be an old, old male. These were like “twentysomething men” working to grow and become stronger. They paid us no heed initially as we sat watching them go about their lives.

Then, two started to flap their large ears and began to approach. Both elephants seemed agitated that we had disturbed their meal, or maybe intruded on their private party. One raised his trunk a few times, maybe sniffing the air for our scent, as he walked toward us. He came up to a bush, something that might have formed a fence-like structure. Was this something for him or us, I wondered. He flapped his ears some more, tossing his trunk back and forth. This behavior was a mock charge, a display of his dominance over us. Our Tanzanian guide sat contentedly, watching. He didn’t appear worried, so I slid forward on my seat, focusing my camera on this magnificent specimen.

The bull walked up to the bush, and I thought he might use his tusks to scrape and rattle the branches, letting us know what he thought. He didn’t, he did flap those ears and wave his trunk, but never shook his head. Eventually, he turned, walking away as if to say, “Oh, humans, how boring!”

African Fish Eagle

The fish eagle looked over its left shoulder and down at us. It was as if this bird was checking us out as possible food. This species is primarily a fish-eater and catches its prey on the wing, much like an osprey. The stare and the eyes had caught my attention. The black bill seemed to point right at me, and the yellow skin accented the black eyes. The feathers on the right side of the head flared out slightly, giving it a menacing look. I could feel my heart racing in excitement. African fish eagles are distantly related to our American bald eagle. They have been moved into a separate genus, Icthyophaga, because scientists think some of the similarities between the two species are from convergence rather than common ancestry. Still, this bird fills a similar niche in Africa and seeing it and reflecting on the challenges of survival were why I’d come. They feed on fish in the lakes and rivers of Africa. Selection has favored a similar body shape and behaviors to those of its American cousin. A sense of awe filled me with reverence. — The fish eagle looked over its left shoulder and down at us. It was as if this bird was checking us out as possible food. This species is primarily a fish-eater and catches its prey on the wing, much like an osprey. The stare and the eyes had caught my attention. The black bill seemed to point right at me, and the yellow skin accented the black eyes. The feathers on the right side of the head flared out slightly, giving it a menacing look. I could feel my heart racing in excitement.

African fish eagles are distantly related to our American bald eagle. They have been moved into a separate genus, Icthyophaga, because scientists think some of the similarities between the two species are from convergence rather than common ancestry. Still, this bird fills a similar niche in Africa and seeing it and reflecting on the challenges of survival were why I’d come. They feed on fish in the lakes and rivers of Africa. Selection has favored a similar body shape and behaviors to those of its American cousin. A sense of awe filled me with reverence.

Gray Kestrel

The Ruaha River flowed slowly over small rapids and into large pools. A few hippos and Nile crocodiles had rested along the waterway. The riverbank was scattered with trees, and most of the land was grassy, with a few small acacias. Our guide had taken us onto a sidetrack that dropped down a bank onto the flood plain. A bird sat on a dead branch twenty feet up, looking right at us, as our vehicle rocked back and forth on the roughness: a falcon, a small one, too. The gray kestrel was only about a foot long, about the same size as the American kestrel. This bird, though, was all gray. The long-pointed wings extended down the tail just like all falcons. The yellow circle of skin around its dark eye and the yellow cere between its bill and head gave the falcon a glamorous look. The stare was penetrating, but the bird didn’t seem nervous. Our guide led us around the tree, giving us a view of this magnificent creature from both sides. — The Ruaha River flowed slowly over small rapids and into large pools. A few hippos and Nile crocodiles had rested along the waterway. The riverbank was scattered with trees, and most of the land was grassy, with a few small acacias. Our guide had taken us onto a sidetrack that dropped down a bank onto the flood plain. A bird sat on a dead branch twenty feet up, looking right at us, as our vehicle rocked back and forth on the roughness: a falcon, a small one, too.

The gray kestrel was only about a foot long, about the same size as the American kestrel. This bird, though, was all gray. The long-pointed wings extended down the tail just like all falcons. The yellow circle of skin around its dark eye and the yellow cere between its bill and head gave the falcon a glamorous look. The stare was penetrating, but the bird didn’t seem nervous. Our guide led us around the tree, giving us a view of this magnificent creature from both sides.

Greater Kudu

Woodland Kingfisher

A blue, red, and black flash shot by the front of our vehicle, heading left into the shade of a large acacia. There, sitting about eight feet off the ground, was a pair of woodland kingfishers. Each had a black shoulder patch, a bright, almost neon-blue back, wing tips, and tail—a large red bill projected in front of a black eye and black eye ring. Light blue covered its head and breast. These were gorgeous kingfishers. Even in the deep shade, they seemed to glow. They call these kingfishers, but they don’t fish. The first bird in this family described by Carl Linnaeus in 1758 was the Common Kingfisher found in Europe. It does feed on fish, as our Belted Kingfisher does in North America. All except a few birds in this family now seem to carry that last name even when they prefer other prey. The woodland kingfisher is a bird of the arid scrub, the savannas, and areas immediately away from rivers. We were only a hundred yards or two from the Ruaha River. This species, though, prefers grasshoppers, locusts, beetles, dragonflies, and other small creatures. It tends to drop from a perch when it spots a morsel, then brings it back to the branch to knock off wings before gobbling it down. We sat for ten minutes, hoping one would drop on a prey item, but they seemed content to wait. — A blue, red, and black flash shot by the front of our vehicle, heading left into the shade of a large acacia. There, sitting about eight feet off the ground, was a pair of woodland kingfishers. Each had a black shoulder patch, a bright, almost neon-blue back, wing tips, and tail—a large red bill projected in front of a black eye and black eye ring. Light blue covered its head and breast. These were gorgeous kingfishers. Even in the deep shade, they seemed to glow.

They call these kingfishers, but they don’t fish. The first bird in this family described by Carl Linnaeus in 1758 was the Common Kingfisher found in Europe. It does feed on fish, as our Belted Kingfisher does in North America. All except a few birds in this family now seem to carry that last name even when they prefer other prey. The woodland kingfisher is a bird of the arid scrub, the savannas, and areas immediately away from rivers. We were only a hundred yards or two from the Ruaha River. This species, though, prefers grasshoppers, locusts, beetles, dragonflies, and other small creatures. It tends to drop from a perch when it spots a morsel, then brings it back to the branch to knock off wings before gobbling it down.

We sat for ten minutes, hoping one would drop on a prey item, but they seemed content to wait.

European Roller

A bird, slightly larger than an American robin, landed on a branch not far from our vehicle. Its head was a light blue, its back rusty colored, and the bill thick, stout, like it was pointed-nose pliers. A European roller, a migrant down for the winter from southern Europe, had come into view and seemed to be hunting. These are distant relatives of kingfishers, and no member of this family occurs in North America. They often hunt from perches, using a wait-and-pounce technique. They will swoop out, grab an insect in the air, or drop on it. They are highly carnivorous and will take small rodents, birds, lizards, and anything edible. He seemed to be eyeing me! — A bird, slightly larger than an American robin, landed on a branch not far from our vehicle. Its head was a light blue, its back rusty colored, and the bill thick, stout, like it was pointed-nose pliers. A European roller, a migrant down for the winter from southern Europe, had come into view and seemed to be hunting. These are distant relatives of kingfishers, and no member of this family occurs in North America.

They often hunt from perches, using a wait-and-pounce technique. The bird will swoop out, grab an insect in the air, or drop on it. They are highly carnivorous and will take small rodents, birds, lizards, and anything edible. He seemed to be eyeing me!

Baby Elephant Swimming

The baby submerged until just the top of its back was visible. An older sibling frolicked to the left. The mother, presumably, stood patiently above the small one. The elephants had come to bathe, swim, and play in the Great Ruaha River. We’d been following this herd for half an hour. They’d worked through some scrub forests, feeding on grasses and shrubs. A grandmother probably led this herd, and everyone was related to her in some way. Cynthia Moss studied elephants in Kenya’s Amboseli National Park. It is a classic and ongoing study. They now have decades of information on numerous families. Daughters, sisters, cousins, and all their offspring stay together. The matriarch elephant makes the decisions on where they go, when they eat, and when a bath is in order. The group had moved a few hundred feet into the water, where it was still shallow enough for everyone, including the smallest, to stand. The young played, throwing their trunks, heads, and bodies all around. It was a joy to see, feeling the sheer excitement in their blood. After a while, Grandma must have signaled it was time to move along. The herd headed across the river to the far bank. — The baby submerged until just the top of its back was visible. An older sibling frolicked to the left. The mother, presumably, stood patiently above the small one. The elephants had come to bathe, swim, and play in the Great Ruaha River. We’d been following this herd for half an hour. They’d worked through some scrub forests, feeding on grasses and shrubs. A grandmother probably led this herd, and everyone was related to her in some way.

Cynthia Moss studied elephants in Kenya’s Amboseli National Park. It is a classic and ongoing study. They now have decades of information on numerous families. Daughters, sisters, cousins, and all their offspring stay together. The matriarch elephant makes the decisions on where they go, when they eat, and when a bath is in order.

The group had moved a few hundred feet into the water, where it was still shallow enough for everyone, including the smallest, to stand. The young played, throwing their trunks, heads, and bodies all around. It was a joy to see, feeling the sheer excitement in their blood. After a while, Grandma must have signaled it was time to move along. The herd headed across the river to the far bank.

Impalas Dueling

Clack, the horns smacked together. Two impalas had their heads down and were dueling. They leaned, lowering their heads, pointing their long, curved horns at the other, then jolted together, pushing with all the strength in their hind legs. Their front legs came up off the ground when one gained an advantage. This must be what each wants: to get the other off balance, maybe toppling it over, winning the duel. Over and over, for maybe ten minutes, they went at each other but never with violent ferocity. Two young males in a bachelor herd were practicing, refining their techniques, and strengthening their muscles. Someday, they hoped to have a chance to take on the dominant male and take over his harem. Impalas are polygynous, and males will defend ten to twenty females. They have exclusive access to the females when they are the harem champion, but it is a challenging position. Day and night, all they do is defend the harem from challengers. Eventually, after a month or maybe two, they are replaced by a younger, stronger, in top shape male. They rarely have a second chance and often fall prey to a cat following their rein because they have worn themselves out. The two young bucks walked a dozen feet away from their sparring spot and started grazing side by side. More practice would come. — Clack, the horns smacked together. Two impalas had their heads down and were dueling. They leaned, lowering their heads, pointing their long, curved horns at the other, then jolted together, pushing with all the strength in their hind legs. Their front legs came up off the ground when one gained an advantage. This must be what each wants: to get the other off balance, maybe toppling it over, winning the duel. Over and over, for maybe ten minutes, they went at each other but never with violent ferocity.

Two young males in a bachelor herd were practicing, refining their techniques, and strengthening their muscles. Someday, they hoped to have a chance to take on the dominant male and take over his harem. Impalas are polygynous, and males will defend ten to twenty females. They have exclusive access to the females when they are the harem champion, but it is a challenging position. Day and night, all they do is defend the harem from challengers. Eventually, after a month or maybe two, they are replaced by a younger, stronger, in top shape male. They rarely have a second chance and often fall prey to a cat following their rein because they have worn themselves out.

The two young bucks walked a dozen feet away from their sparring spot and started grazing side by side. More practice would come.

Leopard

Our Tanzanian guide stopped the cruiser, staring to the left. We’d been puttering along a dirt track just north of the Great Ruaha River in Tanzania. Something was scolding with a high-pitched squeak. At first, I thought it might be a bird and then realized several vervet monkeys were looking back the way we’d come, being very nervous. One of the passengers complained, “It’s just a monkey, let’s go.” She had been complaining all day when we stopped to photograph elephants, giraffes, or zebras. She only wanted a lion. It was the only time I heard our local guide give a sharp, “no.” Our guide turned off the dirt track to go back toward the monkeys. They were looking across an opening, maybe a hundred yards across, to another line of trees along a small ravine. Our guide hadn’t said what it might be, but I suddenly realized, vervet monkeys and a predator. The primates weren’t scanning the sky, so perhaps a leopard! I slid to the edge of my seat, camera ready, held at chest level. Our guide spotted a male leopard lazily lying along a branch 15 feet above the ground. By the time we’d spotted it, we seemed to be too close, and the cat became nervous. He jumped to the ground and slinked through the bushes, stopping a few times to look right at us. This was my first and only sighting of a leopard. — Our Tanzanian guide stopped the cruiser, staring to the left. We’d been puttering along a dirt track just north of the Great Ruaha River in Tanzania. Something was scolding with a high-pitched squeak. At first, I thought it might be a bird, and then realized several vervet monkeys were looking back the way we’d come, being very nervous. One of the passengers complained, “It’s just a monkey, let’s go.” The guide gave a sharp, “no,” and continued his search.

Our guide turned off the dirt track to go back toward the monkeys. They were looking across an opening, maybe a hundred yards across, to another line of trees along a small ravine. Our guide hadn’t said what it might be, but I suddenly realized, vervet monkeys and a predator. The primates weren’t scanning the sky, so perhaps a leopard! I slid to the edge of my seat, camera ready, held at chest level.

Our guide spotted a male leopard lazily lying along a branch 15 feet above the ground. By the time we’d spotted it, we seemed to be too close, and the cat became nervous. He jumped to the ground and slinked through the bushes, stopping a few times to look right at us. This was my first and only sighting of a leopard.

White-fronted Bee-eaters

The boat puttered up the narrow channel off the Rufiji River. The bank on one side was high, maybe 20 feet, and sheer sand. Holes dotted the vertical face, each 2-3 inches in diameter. White-fronted bee-eaters, maybe 50, possibly more, were zipping back and forth, some going into holes, others coming out. It looked like courtship to me—these relatives of kingfisher nest in holes that they dig into sand banks. The tunnel may be a few feet long with a chamber at the back for the eggs and young. I’d read about this behavior and seen photos, but this was my first experience. White-fronted bee-eaters are colonial-nesting species that occur primarily south of the Sahara Desert. I hoped to photograph some flying, possibly emerging from a hole. They flew fast, making it fun to keep them in the frame. I switched back and forth between stills and movie mode, seeing what I might get. Our tour leader was anxious to get going, saying we’d come back a second time. I kept at it as long as I could, thinking I’d study my results and adjust my technique on our next visit. Unfortunately, we didn’t get a second chance. Tanzania had built a dam above this point on the Rufiji River, and over the next three days, there was never enough water flowing to allow our boat to enter this backwater. — The boat puttered up the narrow channel off the Rufiji River. The bank on one side was high, maybe 20 feet, and sheer sand. Holes dotted the vertical face, each 2-3 inches in diameter. White-fronted bee-eaters, maybe 50, possibly more, were zipping back and forth, some going into holes, others coming out. It looked like courtship to me—these relatives of kingfisher nest in holes that they dig into sand banks. The tunnel may be a few feet long with a chamber at the back for the eggs and young. I’d read about this behavior and seen photos, but this was my first experience.

White-fronted bee-eaters are colonial-nesting species that occur primarily south of the Sahara Desert. I hoped to photograph some flying, possibly emerging from a hole. They flew fast, making it fun to keep them in the frame. I switched back and forth between stills and movie mode, seeing what I might get. Our tour leader was anxious to get going, saying we’d come back a second time. I kept at it as long as I could, thinking I’d study my results and adjust my technique on our next visit. Unfortunately, we didn’t get a second chance. Tanzania had built a dam above this point on the Rufiji River, and over the next three days, there was never enough water flowing to allow our boat to enter this backwater.

Nile Crocodile

The Nile crocodile was sprawled on the bank of the Rufiji River, enjoying the sun. Our guide turned off the boat’s motor, and we began to drift toward the monster. This crocodilian might have topped 12 feet, maybe 13, and had an enormous girth. Its slick hide seemed brand new, not a scratch or scar on it. In this river, they primarily eat fish and probably don’t get scars by tackling large mammal prey. The beast seemed undisturbed by us. Our boat was slowly drifting toward it. I had my large zoom lens and began to study it in various ways.

They have yellow “cat-eyes’ with a vertical slit and multiple rings of small scales that accent the pupil. The pupil was narrow as the guy was sleeping in the warmth. Just behind the eye is a horizontal slit that opens into the ear canal. Crocodiles don’t have external pinnae as we do. The jigsaw network of scales on its jaw, head, and neck formed a unique and complex pattern. Each scale had what looked like ink marks, making a fine design. The ridges, bumps, and valleys made a more complicated design, and I wondered what it might feel like to run my index finger along that hide.

Yellow Baboon

Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl

Our open cruiser bumped and tossed on the dirt track in Nyerere National Park. It was my last afternoon in Tanzania, and early the next day, I’d be flying a puddle jumper back to the capital. No one else had wanted to go out, so I had the excellent young guide to myself. He eased up, putting his foot on the brake, slowing and stopping while looking slightly to the front and right of the vehicle. I followed his gaze and saw a giant owl sitting, staring right back at us. The pink eyelids right over the dark eyes are a unique characteristic of the Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl. No other owl species has these wonderfully colored eyelids. This is a big bird, slightly larger than our Great Horned Owl and weighing around 4 pounds. The stare seemed intense but also lazy at the same time. Perhaps the bird was having a hard time waking up. The soft texture of the feathers seemed incredible, but it probably helps in keeping them silent as they hunt. — Our open cruiser bumped and tossed on the dirt track in Nyerere National Park. It was my last afternoon in Tanzania, and early the next day, I’d be flying a puddle jumper back to the capital. No one else had wanted to go out, so I had the excellent young guide to myself. He eased up, putting his foot on the brake, slowing and stopping while looking slightly to the front and right of the vehicle.

I followed his gaze and saw a giant owl sitting, staring right back at us. The pink eyelids right over the dark eyes are a unique characteristic of the Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl. No other owl species has these wonderfully colored eyelids. This is a big bird, slightly larger than our Great Horned Owl and weighing around 4 pounds. The stare seemed intense but also lazy at the same time. Perhaps the bird was having a hard time waking up. The soft texture of the feathers seemed incredible, but it probably helps in keeping them silent as they hunt.

Thoughts

I hope to add more photographs to my Tanzanian Portfolio as I work on “Studies” in particular species. Look for the images here:

https://www.thomasbancroft.com/index/G0000s.TOMEVwjh0

7 thoughts on “A Portfolio from Tanzania”

Alanna

January 1, 2026 at 2:59 PM

Gorgeous photos, Tom. Looks like you had a grand trip to Africa.
- Thomas Bancroft
  
  January 1, 2026 at 3:02 PM
  
  Thanks so much, Alanna, it was great. Amazing things to see. I hope all is well with you. Happy New Year.
Barbie Bancroft

January 1, 2026 at 3:21 PM

Absolutely wonderful, Tom. Loved the copy!
Donald A McCrimmon

January 2, 2026 at 6:25 AM

I’d love a copy of your calendar, Tom
Donald A McCrimmon

January 2, 2026 at 6:26 AM

I’d love a copy of your calendar, Tom
Walt Anderson

January 3, 2026 at 10:39 AM

I’ve been visiting Tanzania for decades, and it always provides amazing experiences. Glad you had so many good sightings.
- Thomas Bancroft
  
  January 3, 2026 at 11:34 AM
  
  Thanks, Walt, it sure is a cool country and the wildlife-birds are amazing. I hope to go back sometime and see some more. Happy New Year! I enjoy all your photos and art work.